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Be
careful of the undertow," my mother warned in somber tones when I
went off with friends for a summer swim at Misquamicut Beach, Rhode Island,
in my youth. "It’s very powerful and can pull you away from
shore–right out to sea!" An inexperienced swimmer, I nodded
gravely and went happily on my way to the day’s pleasure of surf
and sun. Mom, who had extensive Red Cross training, was probably actually
warning me of rip currents, although she had never heard that term and
neither had I. Nor have a great many people who flock to the shore for
holidays. Yet a rip current can sweep away even a strong, skilled swimmer.
Don’t let that scare you away; just read on and be armed with knowledge
about what they are, how to spot them, and what to do.
Rip currents, channelized currents
of water flowing away from shore, can appear on any surf beach (those
with breaking waves), at any time or day. They claim an estimated 100
drowning victims per year in the United States, and that doesn’t
include U.S. citizens vacationing abroad. Despite the fact that they occur
commonly, they are not well-known to most people. Why not? A variety of
reasons; for one, obituaries may report the deaths but give the cause
as drowning without mentioning rip currents. Same thing for news article
reports of rescues and drownings–only about half of these are reported
in news media anyway. Confusion in terminology has not helped; sometimes
rip current, rip tide, and undertow are used interchangeably. The causes
and conditions that generate rip currents have not been well understood
until recently, so the phenomenon has remained shadowy, on the fringes
of our awareness of danger. Imagine that, considering that rip currents
account for 80 per cent of rescues performed by surf beach lifeguards,
and cause more American deaths annually than tornadoes or hurricanes.
One who has
been through one, though, will never forget it, whether he knows the name
or not. Here’s a recollection from Mark Parker, an environmental
analyst at the Connecticut Department of Environmental Protection:
"In 1977 when I was
a student at Southampton College on Long Island, a friend and I went body
surfing on the south shore of Long Island, east of the Shinnecock Bay
inlet, in early November. After catching a number of waves and being in
the water about a half hour, I found myself quite far from shore, and
far down the beach from where we started. My six-foot-ten friend now looked
like a very small stick man and I began to try to get to shore. I became
very tired and began to panic, but managed to calm myself down. I reasoned
I should try to ride some waves in and let them help me get closer. Then
I began swimming parallel to shore to try to find areas where waves were
breaking and moving toward shore. I did, and managed to do a combination
of wave surfing and swimming to finally get to shore. I don’t know
how long it took me but my life passed before my eyes a few times and
when I finally got up on the beach, I was exhausted and collapsed on the
beach to rest. I eventually got back up and my friend reached me and we
got back. I didn’t realize what I had been through until a number
of years later. But I’ve always been thankful that I regained calm
and survived the ordeal."
My mom’s warning
didn’t keep me from enjoying the beach, and this article shouldn’t
keep Wrack Lines readers away either. However, you can arm yourself
with knowledge and pass it on to co-workers, friends, and family, including
children old enough to swim. If a family lives inland, they may be less
familiar with ocean conditions that may be experienced on a vacation far
away from home.
Clues That
A Rip Current May be Present
A channel of churning, choppy water may be a clue–so move to a calmer
section of beach. Another clue is a section of water that appears to be
quite a different color from the waters on either side. A line of seaweed,
debris, or foam moving steadily away toward the sea? Another sign. A break
in the incoming wave pattern could be yet another. One or more, or all,
of these clues may occur (or not). They often form near coastal structures,
such as jetties, groins, piers, or sandbars. Sometimes the current generates
a plume of sediment that can be seen moving away from shore. The body
surfer may not be likely to spot that as he waits for the perfect wave,
but it can be seen in aerial reconaissance, in which case a warning may
be posted. Look for them.
What to Do if You're
Caught
Experts say, if
you’re unlucky enough to be caught in rip current, try your best
to fight off panic and stay calm. Don’t fight it by swimming against
it. Instead, try to recall what you’ve learned here and swim parallel
to the shore. Rip currents can be very narrow, or more than 50 yards wide,
so the length to swim in order to escape will vary widely. If you can
manage to get far enough to one side, you can break free and then head
towards shore at an angle away from it. (see diagram on page 12). If you
are unable to escape the grip of the rip, float or tread water When the
current weakens, swim at an angle slanted away from the current, towards
shore. Do draw attention to yourself, and fast. Facing shore, yell, and
wave. This is not the time for unclear statements, especially if it might
be your last words! Avoid the mistake of calling out the name of a spouse
or friend. If you yell "Sue!" or "Tom!" others may
hear you but not realize you’re in danger. Instead yell "Help!",
pure and simple. Many tragedies have occurred when would-be rescuers are
themselves trapped, so maybe calling them in isn’t the best plan
anyway.
Of course, it would be
a big help if everyone with you had discussed rip currents and what to
do before the trip to the shore. Children are often least prepared, even
though they have learned emergency procedures for other situations. (Hopefully
parents and other care-givers are well aware that an eagle eye must be
trained on all of the offspring at all times, regardless of swimming ability.)
How to Help
Somebody Else
If you hear a call for help
or spot someone in distress, call the lifeguard. Seems like common sense–however,
many states, including Connecticut, are experiencing serious lifeguard
shortages, and people often take their chances. An alternative is to cup
your hands to your mouth and shout instructions to the swimmer. If you
can, throw an object that floats to the person in trouble–a lightweight
cooler or swim ring, for example. The trick is to get it close enough
for the victim to reach, without beaning him in the head. Have someone
phone 9-1-1 immediately and wait for rescuers to arrive. For now, when
you're done with this article, share it with someone–maybe even
your mom!
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Peg Van Patten is Wrack
Lines magazine editor and Communications for Connecticut
Sea Grant, at the University of Connecticut's
Avery Point campus.
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Information
for this article came from the NOAA rip current information campaign,
in partnership with the U.S. Lifesaving Association.
For
more information, see:
http://www.ripcurrents.noaa.gov
For
moving survivors' stories, see: http://www.ripcurrents.noaa.gov/survivors.shtml
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